If your OEM stuff is trashed from track duty, not only is the car not going to present well, you may need to drop a big chunk on new pads, discs, fluid, etc. If you have your OEM stuff new on the shelf to drop on the car, you put those back on, sell our kit for a few thousands of dollars when you sell the car. Most buyers of this type of car are looking closely at the brakes because the OEM bits can be pricey. Most people also don't factor in that they'll probably have to spend some money on their brakes when they go to sell their car on the used market. That also doesn't factor in all the time one spends jacking up the car, missed track sessions, swapping pads and discs, bleeding brakes, etc. We had one BRZ customer run an analysis of that sort, and he found that his cost per track mile was less than a third of what his OEM brake equipment was costing him:
The more you track your car and are burning things up, the faster our kit pays for itself. When you factor in the lower consumable rates (pads, discs, and fluid bleeds), our customers typically find that our kits par for themselves over the course of 2-3 years. You then take the remaining $2k you have invested and spread it across your total time of ownership. That means if you spend $5k on a front kit, you're going to get at minimum $3,000 back when you sell it (typically more). Our kits typically trade hands on the used market for 60-70% of their new MSRP. The price for front and rear are over 14% of what i paid for my m2c with 2NH.Įxchange rates, duties, and shipping all stink! When considering the price, please keep in mind that our brake kits don't plummet in value like OEM brakes. One quick question tho What's the difference between 94? I've always gotten quick responses from him even though I haven't bought my brakes directly from them. Fortunately, has been a great help in the past couple weeks in recommending me which pads I could switch to and finding me the part numbers. This is one thing I cannot stand in a street car. However, DS2500 squeals little bit below 10mph when you are about to come to a complete stop. I'm currently using DS2500 as my daily pads since their compund is compatible with DS1.11 and doesn't require bed-in after every swap. My only complaint is about the pads I'm using. Can't wait to try them out next year on my track days. These brakes are great and probably one of the best brakes (if not the best) you can have for track.
Ap racing radi cal full#
Nice to see the numbers.Īfter installing AP Racing BBK, 763M wheels, Ohlins coilovers, GC camber plates and 10mm spacers all around, my final weight was 3494lbs with full tank of gas which is ~70lbs less than stock (More details -> ). Even though, I weighed the AP kit at home, I hadn't weighed the stock brakes before I sold them. Instead of 9668 in the front, I'm running 9660 (slightly smaller and lighter than 9668) and 9449 in the rear. We have some lengthy threads about our kits elsewhere here on Bimmerpost as well. You can see lots of feedback about how our actual customers are using our kits on our blog: We have people driving our kits in all sorts of environments including dirt, gravel, snow, ice, tarmac.you name it (AP Racing is a huge name in rally racing). Anodizing holds up much better to track abuse and brake fluid than paint or powder coat does. Paint and powder coat hold up better than other coatings if the calipers regularly come into contact with road salt. The other issue is salt and the caliper body itself. They just make a tattered mass hanging from the pistons. In our opinion, dust boots are useless if you are ever getting your brakes hot enough to destroy them. If you wipe the sides of the pistons off during a pad change, before pushing them back into the caliper body, you achieve the exact same thing as a dust boot. Once they are taken on track and burnt or compromised however, they are useless. OEM calipers have dust boots, which are designed to keep grit and grime off the sides of the pistons as you wear your pads and they extend out from the caliper. The primary problem with any brake kit that has a separate aluminum hat (including OEM setups like you see on some Corvettes, etc.) is that road salt gets wedged between the aluminum disc hat and the iron ring, and corrodes the hat. As with pretty much all aftermarket brake kits, our systems are designed for off-road-use only.
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